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Bruno Frisoni has always loved a contrast. The elegant, “riche” style of Roger Vivier, the brand he presides over as creative director, has gotten a jolt of street-style since his arrival in 2004. But lest you think Chuck Taylor or Stan Smith comes to mind, be assured the look is always luxe.
This season, for his “Urban Nomadic” collection, he played with the idea of lace, both technically fabricated leather using a powerful water jet – a greener way of making the skin – and actual guipure lace deconstructed and collaged onto bags and shoes. His key shoe proposal for Spring is the new “Podium’ style shoe – a thick chunky heel on sandals and open-toe booties. Especially sweet was an open-toe pump version in the white Guipure lace with a black grosgrain ribbon ankle strap. He softened up the Viv for an oversized “Viv Cabas” style, marking a key bag style that designer prescribes for either day or night. In trend with the season, his sneaker collection morphed into a city slide sandal for those days when it’s “30 degrees celsius in the city,” fashioned in collaged lace appliquè on mesh or in metallic leathers.
Frisoni’s idea of street denim came in a richly embroidered dark denim group and colorful printed canvas group of mostly platforms and the key shapes of the season, often decorated with the signature pave Roger Vivier buckle. It’s what a Seventies flower child might look like today, only in Beverly Hills or the 16th arrondissment of Paris. A black and white scallop pattern leather print from the Vivier archives added a clean graphic mood to the collection. Frisoni also added his clever design approach to a new open-toe high heel mule. The sandal has a contrasting strap above the main upper; the shoe flips and can also be worn as a sandal with an ankle strap.